Of the more than 300 collections shown during New York Fashion Week, here were the ones that created the most buzz and left the biggest impressions on fashion editors as they headed off to the next round of shows in London, Milan and Paris.
A beautiful, innovative collection in which Francisco Costa layered references to urban tribes, ’80s art, handcraft and even, seemingly, radical chicks of the 1920s. It added up to a modern expression of fashion.
A challenging collection, inspired by the notion of home and interiors, it nonetheless showed the designers in a simpler vein.
Sometimes fashion is all about timing. His conservative-chic clothes, including navy blazers, cuffed denim shorts and belted full-skirted dresses, sounded an optimistic note.
With new proportions, shorter hemlines and a simplified look, he refreshed his minimalist style. His proposal for layering was also modern — a trim wrap skirt over matching shorts.
He presented a variety of styles and attitudes in one collection — snooty tweed suits, pretty lace separates, Spanish evening fantasies — but there was no feeling of role-playing. He made glamour seem natural.
Thom Browne continues to provoke. Ignore the Elizabethan silhouettes and focus on the incredible fabrics and the beautiful effect.
It was just a skirt and a shirt, but done with sophistication. And he refreshed the idea of the practical, inspiring high fashion.
Color is an important part of the ideas and trends that emerge during Fashion Week. Each look is broken into a minimal stack of color bars, then combined to abstract the collection’s hues.
3.1 Phillip Lim Alexander Wang Altuzarra Anna Sui Badgley Mischka Band of Outsiders BCBG Max Azria Bibhu Mohapatra Billy Reid Calla Calvin Klein Charlotte Ronson Christian Siriano Clover Canyon Costello Tagliapietra Creatures of the Wind Cushnie et Ochs Cynthia Rowley Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Donna Karan Duckie Brown Edun Elie Tahari Helmut Lang Hervé Léger Hood by Air J. Crew J. Mendel Jason Wu Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jeremy Scott Jonathan Simkhai Lacoste Louise Goldin Lyn Devon Marc Jacobs Marchesa Marissa Webb Mark McNairy New Amsterdam Michael Bastian Michael Kors Milly Monique Lhuillier N. Hoolywood Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nicole Miller Nonoo Ohne Titel Oscar de la Renta Ostwald Helgason Ovadia & Sons Patrik Ervell Peter Som Prabal Gurung Proenza Schouler Public School Rachel Zoe Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Ralph Rucci Rebecca Taylor Reed Krakoff Richard Chai — Love Robert Geller Rodarte Sally LaPointe Sophie Theallet Suno Tanya Taylor Thakoon Theyskens’ Theory Thom Browne threeASFOUR Todd Snyder Tome Tommy Hilfiger Tory Burch Tracy Reese Vera Wang Veronica Beard Victoria Beckham Visvim Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo